Van Life in Mexico: My Journey with Kerouac

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Kerouac’s Story (or Buying a Van in Mexico)

This one is my 2003 Dodge Ram Van 1500. My home for one year of Van Life in Mexico.

I bought this beauty in Oaxaca State and named it after Jack Kerouac, my favourite travel writer. Not only because he was a French Canadian like me, I promise.

If you haven’t read On the Road yet, I highly recommend it. It’s probably his best-known novel. I also really enjoyed Tristessa, which is closely connected to Mexico if you want to stay on the theme.

I drove across North America’s borders with Kerouac. Converted it on a budget. Then sold back in Canada. And yes, somehow, it paid for the entire trip.

Sometimes the road rewards the bold. And I’ll reward the Internet with my knowledge on how to buy a van in Mexico.

Van Life in Mexico: My Journey with Kerouac
In honour of Jack Kerouac <3

Why Buying a Van in Mexico?

Because the prices make sense.
Because rust is not a lifestyle in the South.
In my case, especially because I was already in there. And I wanted a vehicle. I was tired of arguing with bus drivers about Karma. I needed cheap transport and accommodation.

Then I found it. My Dodge Ram Van 1500. Solid. Honest.
Nothing fancy, but willing.

Dodge ram van 1500 white in mexican jungle
Somewhere between Puerto Escondido and Oaxaca

How I Bought the Van

I regularly check Facebook Marketplace. A lot. After a few ones, I chose Kerouac. I withdrew cash from ATMs over several days.

In Mexico, the most important thing is the original vehicle’s invoice.
This document proves ownership. Do not buy a vehicle without it. Ever. And try not to keep it in your car, if possible. I had no choice, but most people keep it had home.

The seller must:

  • Give you the original invoice
  • Legally transfer ownership by signing the back of it

No invoice, no deal. Walk away.

We also wrote a simple sales contract with our names, the date, the price, and signatures. Nothing fancy. Just clear.

Extra advice from experience:

  • Double-check the VIN
  • Match names exactly
  • Take photos of everything
  • Take it for a test drive
  • Trust your gut. If it feels weird, it probably is.
Buying a Van in Oaxaca, Mexico. A girl signing papers
Signing paperwork for purchasing the van

Plates, Insurance, and Reality

If your goal is to stay, things can be flexible. I’ll say it like this: some people keep the previous owner’s plates and carry the invoice as proof of ownership. This may work in some states if you do not plan on crossing borders.

Now, about insurance.
It exists. It’s not always enforced. I did not have insurance while I was driving in Mexico and was never asked for it. That said, laws change, situations change, and this is not legal advice. It’s just what happened to me.

Police stop? Rarely about paperwork. More about patience. About pesos. That would be the 1 downside here. La policía. I learned Spanish. I stayed calm. I kept conversations short. And yes, Mexico has a complicated relationship with corruption. Understanding local culture helps more than panic.

I also did the oil and filter changes right from the bat. The tires and brakes too after I got a flat on the beach. Luckily, a random good Samaritan (intoxicated, but hey, it’s Mexico) helped me out. I wanted to make sure everything was alright BEFORE I hit the long road! Not like my experiences with the boys in the van Wild Rose in Canada.

A woman and a man fixing a flat tire in Mexico
Fixing a flat tire in Puerto Escondido

Registering Under Your Name (Yes, Even on a Tourist Visa)

If you want to drive north or south, you must register the van in your name.

Good news: it is possible even on a tourist visa.

The system needs:

  • Your name on the registration form
  • Your picture
  • A Mexican address linked to a resident

That means you need a friend or family member with legal citizenship of residency and an address.

Lucky me, my dad lived in Mexico back then.
He sent a photo of his residence card. One phone call. One SMS. Done.

It was registered under my name, at his address.

That gave me everything I needed to cross the United States and re-enter Canada legally.

Van Conversion: Simple, Cheap, Perfect for Me

I am not a very manual person.
But the south is full of people who are. And I like to encourage the local economy.

For less than 100 CAD, I had a local builder make:

  • A bed frame
  • Install it
  • Drink a couple of beers

That was it.

I did not build a kitchen. Eating out was cheaper than groceries, and way more fun. Taco stands beat cabinets every time.

two men installing a bed frame in a van
Installing the bed frame in the van

The Everyday Life in Kerouac

Electricity came from restaurants and cafés. And asking nicely, of course (in Spanish if you can). Solar panels are perfect for constant sun.

In beach towns, I negotiated with hostel managers:

  • Shower access
  • Internet
  • Electricity
  • No bed because I already had one

Prices? About $3–4 a day, especially in Oaxaca state.
Puerto Escondido, Zipolite, San José del Pacífico, Oaxaca City.

In cities, I parked on the street and used friends’ bathrooms for beers. Sometimes I rented an Airbnb for a few days just to rest and binge Netflix.

Balance is everything.

Mexico to Canada: Driving North with a Mexican-Plated Truck

Make sure you have insurance for crossing the US and Canada, as it is mandatory. Nobody asked me, but I preferred to have it. I also got a speeding ticket in the State of New York and could have needed it. Anyway, I took a 30 days’ insurance just for the crossing part. You can check out companies like Mexpro or Cheapinsurance. It’s always a good practice to compare two or three companies and get the best deal.

At the Canadian border, you must pay the federal import tax immediately.
Later, when you register the vehicle in your province, you will pay the provincial tax.

In my case, Québec:

  • Federal import tax at the border
  • Provincial registration through the SAAQ

Total taxes? Under 400 CAD.

I had to pass a provincial inspection. A few fixes. Nothing dramatic. Once done, I registered the van locally.

Much easier to sell with Canadian plates. Let’s be honest, very few people are shopping for a van with foreign plates.

a white van on a desert road with blue sky
In the desert somewhere near San Luis Potosi

The Profit

I sold it for a little over 10,000 CAD.

That covered:

  • The car
  • The conversion
  • Gas
  • Repairs
  • Taxes
  • The entire trip

Yes.
I basically took a free road trip.

Sometimes you take advantage of the system. Sometimes, it lets you.

Karma and I are still on speaking terms.

What’s Next?

I’ll write more about:

  • Top places to park in MX
  • Backpacking vs van living
  • Importing and exporting your dog to and from there

If you’re thinking about buying a van in Mexico or travelling this way, reach out or comment!

Would you take that risk for a free road trip?
Or would the paperwork alone stop you?

More stories coming about that trip… 🚐

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