Van Life in Morocco: Unforgettable 3 Months Road Tripping With a Dog
Post Guide
From Sète to Nador
I crossed the Mediterranean on a 52-hour ferry from Sète in France to Nador in Morocco, waving goodbye to Europe and hello to the chaos, colours, and Moroccan sun. During the crossing, we couldn’t access the van, so I stayed inside on a normal seat while Karma slept in a fixed cage outside. During the day, we spent time on the sundeck. Amazingly, Karma didn’t pee or poop for the entire 52 hours—until we reached Nador, where she finally took the longest pee ever right on the boat carpet—oops!
This marked the start of our Morocco road trip. Over the next three months, travelling to Morocco with a dog, I left with a suitcase full of memories, a van full of dust, and Karma, my loyal four-legged companion, exhausted from cultural shocks, beaches, mountains, and souks.
What started as a Schengen visa escape turned into an unforgettable ninety-day first experience in Africa.
I booked my trip with Direct Ferries. It’s an excellent site for ferry trips. You can also compare prices on Ferryhopper.
Mixed feelings, really. Landscapes? 10/10. People? It depends. Some regions felt warm and curious; others… well, Karma got stared at a lot. And so did I.
First Impressions & My Route in Morocco
All the places I travelled in Morocco: Fes, Marrakech, Chefchaouen, Essaouira, Taghazout, the Atlas Mountains, the Rif Mountains, and the Sahara Desert. I’ll dive deeper into some of these in related posts below. This country is immense, full of contrasts, so covering it all in one post is impossible. Here I’ll share the big lines, what pops into my head, and a few practical tips.
If you’ve read some of my other writings, you’ll notice I love sharing books I read while travelling. In Morocco, a lot of my travel reading came from local stories and guidebooks, which gave context to the people, culture, and landscapes. Back then, I read Sapiens by Yuval Noah Harari. It felt like the perfect book for that space and time in my life—an intelligent piece of work about human history and our origins.
Arriving in Nador, the African adventure felt unreal. Sunny, warm, chaotic.
Cities, Chaos & Coastal Calm
Fes was a surprise. I had booked a “fake Airbnb” ad but ended up staying with a Moroccan family instead. Real home-cooked meals, genuine conversations, and a glimpse into daily life I’d never get in a riad.
City Van Tips:
- If you stay in a riad or Airbnb, park your van at the city entrance (~30 dirhams/day).
- Parking guards often come to scrutinize your van; a little chocolate goes a long way.
Marrakech? Sensory overload. Medinas, colours, smells, sounds, chaos, spices. Haggling is expected—carry small bills and patience.
Essaouira → Taghazout: calmer vibes, friendlier locals, and waves that feel like they welcome you. We rented a large beach house with friends in Imi Ouaddar near Taghazout—sunrise walks, coffee, Atlantic views. Pure magic.
Chefchaouen: Instagram heaven. Blue streets, relaxed pace, mint tea. Coup de cœur for me. Tanger as well. The northern coast felt easier and friendlier than the eastern and inland regions.
Atlas Mountains & Sahara Desert
Atlas Mountains: snow-capped peaks, hidden Berber villages, roads twisting as if they’re playing tricks on your GPS. Downloaded map, a 4×4 is recommended for offbeat spots, though I managed it with my small Nemo van.
Sahara Desert: bucket-list stuff. Endless dunes, nights under stars so bright your phone feels useless, camel rides, nomad tea, and a silence that hums in your ears. Full story coming in my “Van Life Morocco” post (coming soon!).
Practical Tips for Morocco
- Van life in Morocco: independence is key. A 4×4 or fully equipped van is very helpful, especially with a dog. Still, I managed it with a compact car. More on this in my upcoming Van Life Morocco adventures post.
- Parking in cities: park at the entrance (~30 dirhams/day) if you stay in a riad or Airbnb. A little chocolate for the parking guard can help!
- Fes anecdote: my Airbnb was fake, so I ended up staying with a Moroccan family. Real home-cooked meals, stories, and insights into everyday life. Way better than any tourist riad. Make sure your Airbnb has reviews before booking in Africa!
- Sahara Desert: a bucket-list experience. Endless dunes, nomad tea, and nights under the stars. Full story coming in my “Van Life Morocco” post.
- Chefchaouen: Instagram heaven. Walk slowly, sip mint tea, soak in the blue walls. A huge highlight for me. If you want to visit the Rif Mountains and/or you are a big hashish smoker, this place is definitely for you.
- Essaouira & Taghazout: calm beaches, perfect waves, ideal for long mornings and sunsets. Imi Ouaddar was also very nice. Taghazout is definitely the surf place to be and a cool spot.
- Atlas & Rif Mountains: incredible views, remote villages, winding roads. 4×4 recommended, but you will survive without it.
- Souks & Bargaining: expected! Always negotiate; ask for the price per kilogram for spices or fruits, and carry small bills. It’s part of the culture; don’t panic.
- Data: SIM Card or internet, I found for longer stays to take a 3-month contract with Orange to be the most effective choice. eSim with Holafly or similar also works just fine.
- Moroccan Words & Customs:
Medina: an ancient walled city where you’ll find narrow streets, colourful souks, local food, and historic architecture.
Riad: a traditional Moroccan house or palace with an interior garden or courtyard, often converted into a guesthouse.
Salam Alaikum: the universal greeting, meaning “Peace be upon you.” Always respond with Wa Alaikum Salam.
Shukran: “Thank you” in Arabic, very useful in markets, cafés, and shops.
Mint tea: often offered as a welcome gesture; it’s polite to accept at least one cup. Careful, they put A LOT of sugar in it!
Travelling in Morocco With a Dog
Before leaving, I made sure her vaccinations were up to date. The European Union also requires a Rabies Titer Test to prove the vaccine is working. Once done, yearly rabies vaccinations are sufficient. An EU-approved laboratory must test it. Non-EU travellers need to have this done in their home country before departure.
Here’s the official site for EU: Designated laboratories for performing rabies antibody titration tests
And here for US: Approved Rabies Serology Laboratories for Testing Dogs
Arriving by plane might be stricter, but by ferry/road it was easy. Same on return to Spain three months later. Comment below if you have questions about these steps.
Overall, travelling in Morocco with Karma was doable. In the van, camping, or in the wild, there’s no problem—camels, goats, cats, and dogs are everywhere anyway. The tricky part comes in hotels, riads, or Airbnbs. They often say “pet-friendly,” but staff aren’t always aware, call their boss, and it can take ages. It’s like they click “pet-friendly” to attract guests, but aren’t ready for pets. Patience and self-control are key.
You can visit the official website of Morocco for pet entry requirements here.
Karma was here: YES.
Dog-friendly? Not really. Muslim culture often means people avoid dogs, and many accommodations won’t accept pets. Still, everything is manageable. And they love cats! Met so many friendly stray dogs on the beach.
Don't be shy!