Travel Costa Rica with a Dog: 3 Months of Pura Vida, Chaos & Caribbean Sunsets
Pura Vida sounds like something printed on airport souvenirs until it quietly becomes your rhythm.
For three months, it became mine.
I chased adrenaline in the cloud forests of Monteverde, zip lining above the canopy; hiked the volcanic trails of the Arenal region, and attempted to surf in Tamarindo. But the part that stayed with me happened on the Caribbean side.
In Puerto Viejo, I volunteered in a beach hostel and restaurant where days blurred into salt, reggae and slow time. I saw more sloths than I thought existed, and the first night I heard howler monkeys, I was convinced a jaguar was nearby.
Puerto Viejo felt different. Less polished, more alive, a little chaotic in a way that made everything feel real. It was my coup de cœur.
Cahuita National Park became a quiet ritual. Jungle meeting turquoise water, often with barely anyone around if you arrive early.
Costa Rica is also where my dog Karma had her first and only romantic adventure. A brief beachside encounter with a local dog, followed shortly after by a very practical visit to the vet. The story ended there. Efficient, definitive, and very much part of the journey.
It’s also where I wrote my second poetry book, Les noires pensées du Poisson-Chat, during ayahuasca sessions. I didn’t read much during that trip, but I tried tarot reading. You can find my favourite tarot deck card, and guide book for tarot and witchcraft on my book recommendations page here.
Guide For This Post
Getting Around Costa Rica with a Dog
If there is one thing to plan properly, it is transportation.
I travelled the country in a Toyota Corolla. It worked, but just barely. Some roads felt closer to off-road tracks than actual roads, with potholes, steep gravel sections, and occasional river crossings.
A 4×4 is strongly recommended, especially if you want to reach remote beaches, waterfalls, or explore around Arenal. During the rainy season, it becomes almost essential.
With a dog, transportation options are limited. Public buses generally do not allow animals without strict conditions, and shared shuttles are rarely flexible.
Renting a car is the best option. It gives you full control over your route, stops and accommodations, and makes travelling with a dog significantly easier.
Where to Stay in Costa Rica
Puerto Viejo
Staying near the beach in Puerto Viejo is part of the experience. Look for hostels or eco-lodges close to Playa Cocles or Punta Uva.
Expect jungle sounds at night, wildlife right outside your room, and a slower, more immersive atmosphere.
Volunteering can also be a great way to extend your stay at a lower cost while connecting with the place more deeply. I’ll be forever grateful to my Costa Rican family at Tasty Wave — you have to stay there if you visit Puerto Viejo.
Puerto Viejo has a strong reggae vibe and a distinctly Caribbean energy that sets it apart from the Pacific coast. It’s also a popular jumping-off point for Panama — Bocas del Toro is just a border crossing away if you’re feeling adventurous.
Where I stayed: Tasty Dayz, Playa Cocles — pet-friendly, beachside, and run by genuinely wonderful people. I volunteered here, and it became my home base for weeks.
Arenal Region
In the Arenal area, prioritise accommodations with volcano views or access to nature. Eco-lodges, jungle cabins, and small boutique hotels offer the best experience. Greenery surrounds many, close to hot springs, and within easy reach of hiking trails.
Where I stayed: Essence Arenal, Spa, Yoga and Bio-Farm. Enchanting site with a magical view. Pet-friendly!
Tamarindo
Tamarindo is the surf spot — vegan cafés, after-parties on the beach, and the backpacker’s nightlife dream. Chill vibe, a little Americanised, with quads everywhere on the dirt roads. Great for digital nomads and anyone chasing Pacific sunsets. The small waves make it ideal for beginner surfers.
Where I stayed: Pura Vida Hostel. A short walk to the beach. Very chill atmosphere. We could take a private room that we shared with two other backpackers, and Karma could come with us.
San José
San José is the capital and your likely arrival point. It’s also the main hub for moving on to Nicaragua or other parts of Costa Rica. Most travellers don’t linger long, but it’s worth a day or two — the Mercado Central, the Barrio Amón neighbourhood, and the Jade Museum are worth your time if you have it.
I had to extend my stay unexpectedly when Karma needed surgery. After her operation, she was pretty out of it for a while — watching a dizzy dog try to navigate a tile floor is both heartbreaking and, eventually, a little funny.
Where I stayed: It was called Hostel Finca Escalante; now it’s called Awa. Same beautiful building. Just seemed to have upgraded a bit. Very well located in San José. Highly recommend this place. It looks even better now!
What to Do in Costa Rica
Snorkelling to volcano hiking. Wildlife watching to reggae dancing on the beach at midnight. Ayahuasca retreat to local markets. Costa Rica doesn’t do boring — it just asks which version of alive you want to feel today.
Here’s a taste of what each region offers, but honestly? Just hanging out by the beach is also a completely valid itinerary.
- Monteverde — zip lining above the cloud forest canopy and hiking trails that feel like another planet
- Arenal — volcano hikes, waterfall chasing, and soaking in natural hot springs with a view
- Tamarindo — surf culture, Pacific sunsets, and the kind of nightlife that sneaks up on you
- Puerto Viejo — Caribbean vibes, wildlife encounters, and a pace of life that genuinely recalibrates you
- Cahuita National Park — jungle meeting turquoise water, and somehow still one of the most underrated spots in the country
- Everywhere, really — Costa Rica has some of the most biodiverse ecosystems on the planet. The insects, plants, and colours alone are worth the trip!
Pura Vida.
Best Time to Visit Costa Rica
The dry season runs from December to April and offers the best weather and easier road conditions.
The green season brings fewer crowds and impossibly lush landscapes, but driving becomes more challenging outside primary routes — especially in a regular car rather than a 4×4.
Pacific vs. Caribbean Coast
People know the Pacific coast for its sunsets, surf culture, and more developed tourist infrastructure. The Caribbean coast offers a more laid-back atmosphere, a stronger Afro-Caribbean culture, and a much less commercial feel.
If you can only pick one, Puerto Viejo wins for character, wildlife, and atmosphere.
Travelling in Costa Rica with a Dog
Costa Rica is moderately dog-friendly, but requires planning.
Public transportation is restrictive. Some accommodations accept dogs, but policies vary. Veterinary care is accessible and relatively affordable.
Having your own vehicle makes a significant difference and allows for a much smoother experience overall.
The dog import process from Canada went pretty smoothly. You can consult the official website and download the form for your veterinarian here. Just make sure that when you arrive at the airport, the agent gives you back your pet documents after verifying everything. Back in the days I didn’t have a pet passport, and the agent took Karma’s rabies certificate… and that became problematic for me. Make sure you have everything!
Karma was here: YES. It was her fourth country!
Dog-friendly? Moderate. Public buses and transport won’t allow it, especially not without a cage. Renting a car is the best. Buying a car can be VERY expensive in Costa Rica. Loads of people also have quads and stuff like that for little town transport. Fun fact, that’s the only time Karma had sex! Then it was chop-chop… I couldn’t afford to bring puppies around the world (even if I’d love to).
Costa Rica Beyond the Tourist Trail
Costa Rica snuck up on me in ways I didn’t expect.
Yes, the wildlife is insane — I saw my first sloth there, hanging from a tree like it had decided time was a social construct, and I understood immediately why people lose their minds over them.
They cross the roads at night and cause a lot of traffic, but it’s such a nice (and long experience to witness). Howler monkeys at 5 am. Toucans just… wow. Nature here doesn’t perform for you; it just lives loudly and lets you watch.
What a gift from life!
But what really got to me was the people.
Costa Rica attracts specific kind of human — off-grid thinkers, long-term travellers, expats who came for two weeks in 2015 and never quite left, locals who’ve seen it all and are quietly amused by everyone else. Sometimes these worlds clash. Sometimes they blend into something genuinely beautiful. Often both in the same evening.
I volunteered, stumbled into conversations in broken Spanish, and slowly got better at both. The language, and the stumbling.
Some people I met in Costa Rica showed up again later — in Colorado, in Canada, in Romania. I’m going to France soon and will meet another friend I met there and haven’t seen for years. I’m so lucky. That’s the thing about travelling slowly and staying long enough to actually meet people: the world gets smaller in the best possible way.
If you love travel friendship, you should check out this post.
And then there was Karma.
Her first heat, her first — and last — romantic encounter. Dogs were attracted to her from what felt like kilometres away, creating absolute chaos, and I was stressed beyond reason. A brief but eventful period in her life. The vet visit that followed was efficient. The decision, final.
But for a few days in Costa Rica, she lived her best life, and I aged several years..
Bonus Travel Tip
If you enjoy reading this, here are a few other posts you might like about travelling and smart tips on the road.
- Start Your Travel Adventures: Escape Financial Obligations
- Planning Your Travel Budget: Smart Strategies
- Minimalist Living: How I Sold Everything to Travel The World Full-Time
Don't be shy!