Writing Vagabond

This USA road trip itinerary covers a long van life journey from Canada to Mexico and back through the American West. The route includes stops in: Kentucky, Tennessee, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, Texas, California, Arizona, Nevada, Utah, Wyoming and South Dakota, with highlights like the Grand Canyon, Joshua Tree National Park, Valley of Fire, Badlands National Park, and more!

If you’re planning a USA road trip, this guide shares real experiences, costs, camping spots, and practical tips from the road.

Last week I published my honest post about Van Life in Morocco. It stirred up a surprising amount of controversy. So here’s another honest one.

Apparently, honesty about travel experiences can bruise feelings. But when I started Writing Vagabond, my goal was simple: to share travel stories exactly as they happen. Not polished. Not romanticized. Just real.

Because travel is messy. And beautiful. And sometimes weird. There are already thousands of travel guides and bucket lists out there. I lean more toward a storytelling style. A transparent one and hopefully, a useful one too!

Planning a USA road trip soon?
Tell me in the comments which state is on your list.

I added all these road trip spots to a Google Map list. Subscribe to my newsletter (one friendly monthly email about travel, literature, and more) to get the free map list.

Crossing the Border Canada → USA with a Dog, a European and two Cactus

November 2024. The day after Trump was reelected. That’s when we headed south.

We crossed into the United States from Niagara Falls, Ontario, into New York State.

Frankly, I wasn’t sure what to expect. And the new pet import rule for my dog established in the States. If this is news to you, read the requirements on the official Centers for Disease Control and Prevention website. It sounds more complicated than it is. Just fill in the form online before your departure date and make sure the required vaccines for your pet are up-to-date.

I was travelling with:

• A Canadian woman (myself)
• A German man
• A Bolivian dog
• Two mini cacti

Yes. The cactus became part of the interrogation. And the German.

At the border, they asked him for his visa, checked his ESTA, asked a few questions. The interrogation felt never-ending. They just charged them the entry fee in the end, something like $6, or so.

The Canadian girl? No questions.

The Bolivian dog? No questions.

The cactus? Suspicious. They took them.

Two hours later, the adventure officially started.

USA Road Trip Route Overview

I started from Montréal, showed Niagara Falls to my partner before taking the Rainbow Bridge into New York State.

From then, in November, with a broken heater, it was not suitable to camp comfortably in that weather. So we drove fast. Passed Cincinnati. An enormous city full of lights and skyscrapers.

We barely stopped in Pennsylvania and Ohio. I just drove all night, listening to my favourite music and got hypnotized by the yellow lines.

What struck me first? Two things. The number of fast food, and lawyer billboards. Miles and miles of them.

“Call this lawyer now.”

“Hurt in an accident?”

“We fight for YOU.”

At first, it seemed movie-like.

Then something happened in Nashville, and I understood it all.

Nashville, Tennessee Road Trip Stop

We parked across from a bridge to explore the city. Found a spot, but full of homeless people fooling around in the park. I was not sure to leave the van unattended there, but took the risk anyway.

I remember hearing the music coming from the other side of the bridge. Feeling it. This is it. I’m in Nashville motherfuckers!!! The Music City!

And then…

We watched someone literally jump in front of a slow-moving car in motion.

A fake accident attempt! Right under our eyes. Just like the highway ads. Suddenly, those billboards made a lot more sense! Few people also told us about Dash Cam type of gadget they all have in their car to protect themselves in court if an incident like that happens.

America sometimes feels like a place where everything is either a business… or about to become one.

Still, Nashville was vibrant, chaotic, loud, and musical. Bachelorette party type of town.

We personally just walked around, felt the music and atmosphere, and went back to the van. I kind of wanted to see if my van was still there! Nothing happened haha.

I’d go again, but more into a festive vibe or a city trip. Not particularly interesting for nature seekers or van life wide spaces.

Alabama: Forrest Gump Territory

We slept at the Welcome Center with the board of Tennessee for a night. It’s always a nice alternative to the Walmarts when you’re on a ”just stop for sleep” type of journey.

While driving though Alabama, I couldn’t stop thinking about Forrest Gump. Especially the scene where Jenny throws rocks at her childhood house. It always makes me cry!

The American South carries stories everywhere. Music. Movies. History. Civil rights. Ghost towns. Gas stations with fried food.

We passed it fast also because we had a special thing to see mid-month in Texas. Some friends of mine highly recommended Mobile, Alabama. It’s a place I’ll try next time!

Mississippi River Road Trip Stop

At some point the pace slowed down. Big river towns. Rusty bridges. Even more fried food in the gas station.

Endless muddy water moving south. The smell was more humid. The air was warmer. The vibe felt rougher and more intense. Can’t stop hearing Biggie Smalls lyrics in my head: ”From Mississippi to the East Coast!”

The Mississippi River feels like something out of Mark Twain, which reminded me to revisit the classics.

During this trip, I re-read Tom Sawyer and Huckleberry Finn. You can find them on my book recommendations page.

There is something poetic about reading them while actually crossing the landscapes they describe.

We camped at POW Lake Recreation Park. A national forest where you can park for free. I was surprised to learn that POW stands for Prisoner of War. It’s actually a free camping place. It was a few calm nights near a lake. We met our first American neighbours there. The ones that keep the generator on all night for air-con or TV. Welcome to America!

New Orleans and the Louisiana Bayous

I’ll be honest. New Orleans really surprised me. I expected jazz. Blues. The 50s. Brass bands on every corner.

Instead, we found something very different. Hip-hop blasting through the streets. Alcohol vendors in the middle of the street. Loud. Gangster energy. More intense than romantic. My friend has been during Mardis Gras and on occasions in the past, and she says she didn’t experience this. So I guess maybe different timing brings different vibes.

Maybe we were just in the wrong neighbourhood. Or maybe cities evolve faster than our travel fantasies. Still fascinating. Also, an accident happened where the car hit a lot of tourists on the same street just a few days after we were there…

I feel so bad when tragedies like this happen. And I feel so lucky that the timing was right for me. I’m very sorry for everyone involved in this accident.

The countryside and the bayous outside the city, though? Pure magic. We passed through a plantation called The Houmas House. I was a bit torn between visiting this or not… morally speaking. So I just took a picture from outside and a lunch in the parking lot. Looked like a beautiful building and garden.

Then we headed for an airboat tour on the bayou to meet the alligators. Airboats are more expensive than normal boats, but they’re awesome, so we chose this one.

Texas: The Big State

Texas. Everything felt bigger. Bigger trucks. Bigger roads. Bigger accents. Gun shows signs everywhere. And the cheapest gasoline I had seen in months.

Which is always surreal when you’re a vegetarian Canadian who doesn’t own a weapon. But Texans might be the friendliest strangers we met. That’s also where Spanish is widely spoken. I was surprised in some restaurant or some shops. I had to speak Spanish sometimes as we got closer to the border.

And then something incredible happened.

Watching a SpaceX Rocket Launch on South Padre Island, Texas

We witnessed a SpaceX rocket launch. That was the dream of my travel partner. So I think it was November 18th or 19th, 2024. If you’re ever in Texas or California, check the launch schedule. It is something!

Watching a rocket take off in real life is surreal. I have a very good video on my personal Instagram‘s highlights USA.

People gather with lawn chairs, snacks, and binoculars. It feels like a small festival. A scientific campfire. We stayed in a campsite near so it was easy to just walk there for the event. Isla Blanca Park is a huge campground where it was about $40 a night. It’s right next to the spot. But there are a lot of sticky little things on the ground there! (Not sure how it’s called…)

Winter Van Life in Mexico: Crossing the Mexican Border (with a Dog)

At that point, winter had caught us. So we crossed into Mexico and spent several months there.

That’s a whole other story. I’ll write a longer post about backpacking and van living in Mexico, from Chiapas to Baja California.

For people wondering which border are the safest. Or the easiest. Or the least dangerous. I can just talk about the ones I took.

So here they are and for me, as a Canadian woman travelling with a dog, solo sometimes and with someone at other times, they all went easy, on both sides. For the papers, for the dog, even during COVID times. So don’t worry too much!

Here’s the good, safe, and easy borders to cross from or into Mexico:

• Laredo
• Mexicali
• Reynosa

Crossing the Mexicali Border Back to the US

In February, we started the journey back north. Crossing from Mexico into California at Mexicali.

Border crossing was surprisingly relaxed. They confiscated some fruit and vegetables.

But the border officer was incredibly friendly. Karma the dog? Still no questions. The German?

Drop me a comment if you have a question or a worry about border crossing, with or without a dog. I respond to all comments.

Oh, and I bought my yearly Costco card in Mexico before leaving. It’s half priced in Mexico and works just fine in the US and in Canada.

California Desert Road Trip

Southern California in March was already 30°C. Our first stop was El Centro to repair the RV heater.

Ironically. Then we headed to one of the strangest places in America. I’m getting there!

The southern part of California was well Spanish. I guess every border city in the world keeps some international mix language. It felt like a sweet transition after the Mexican culture.

Joshua Tree National Park Van Life Guide

This is where we bought the America the Beautiful National Park Pass. Highly recommended if you plan to visit multiple parks. I talk more about it at the end of this post in the cost section.

Joshua Tree feels like another planet. Dr. Seuss trees. Pink sunsets. Huge boulders stacked like children’s toys.

The drive, from one entrance or the other, is equally cool. It’s a bit of a drive, park, walk, drive more, park, check this out. A full-day was enough for us to check it all out. We also slept at the visitor center, which allows you to sleep for free again. There’s even coffee and tea for free inside the boutique!

Slab City and Bombay Beach

Then we headed to a place a friend of mine recommended. A desert community built outside the system. Artists. Off-grid dwellers. Anarchists. Snowbirds.

And people who simply don’t fit anywhere else.

Slab City deserves its own article. Even its own thriller story. I’m working on both..

Nearby is Bombay Beach, another surreal stop on the Salton Sea. Another artsy place where it’s possible to park for free as long as you want. I’ll dig into this one too in the Slab City upcoming article.

Arizona: Road Trip to The Grand Canyon National Park

The American West suddenly changed everything. No more dense cities. No more endless highways.

Just dry desert and giant horizons.

The landscape felt strangely familiar. Because Hollywood has filmed it a thousand times. Breaking Bad energy everywhere.

Of course, we headed for the Grand Canyon National Park. As it was in March 2025, approximately one year ago, it was still freezing up there. (Good thing we fixed the heater.) So that just means that you have to check with Rim you can take and path are open at the time of the year you’re planning to visit. The south rim is open all-year, so we went there.

We also camped for a couple of days to do the trails we wanted to hike. Be careful, the showers close at 4 p.m. in the winter. Plan accordingly! I also brought my dog onto the Bright Angel Trail and other ones. I put her service dog vest on and had no problem with it. In case you were wondering!

Here’s the campground open all-year on the south rim : South Rim Campground

Like all camping the National Parks or State Parks, you need to reserve in advance through the official websites.

Antelope Canyon and Horseshoe Bend

Antelope Canyon and Horseshoe Bend (Arizona)

Before leaving Arizona, we made a stop near Page to visit two of the most photographed places in the American Southwest.

Antelope Canyon is one of those landscapes that almost looks unreal. A narrow slot canyon carved by water over thousands of years. Light beams fall through the rock and create glowing orange waves on the walls. The Microsoft Windows background type.

Visits must be done with a Navajo guide, and tickets sell out quickly. If it’s on your list, book in advance. As there are some ladders to take and the path is narrow, dogs can’t come inside the Canyon.

Just a few minutes away is Horseshoe Bend. A massive curve of the Colorado River carved into the desert cliffs.

It’s one of the easiest “wow” views in the American West. A short walk from the parking lot and suddenly the entire canyon opens beneath your feet.

Sunsets here is spectacular. Dogs are welcomed.

Oatman: Donkey Town

Oatman is a tiny wild-west town filled with free-roaming donkeys. They are adorable.

Unless you have a dog. Shop owners warned us to leave Karma in the car.

Apparently, donkey diplomacy has limits.

Anyway, it’s a charming brief stop on Route 66. A few hours are more than enough to visit Oatman.

The road between Oatman and Kingman is an awesome drive. Highly recommend it! You’ll find plenty of BLM places to park in this area too. Normally, you can stay for up to two weeks there. People are living there too sometimes, so I guess there’s no real ”end date”.

Nevada, Las Vegas & The Valley of Fire Hiking

It’s difficult to park in Las Vegas for free. The Walmarts don’t allow it. On iOverlander app, you can find free places to park around, but you have to go out of town. And once you go up the valley, the weather changes drastically. Where it was warm and dry in Las Vegas, we had snow falling a few miles up!

To visit the city of Las Vegas, I parked in a private garage for $30/24 h and slept there. I found the city of Las Vegas to be pet-friendly in general; I could bring my dog inside the casinos and bars.

About The Valley of Fire State Park, this park lives up to its name. Red rocks glowing like burning coal. The driving is amazing. We hiked among shapes that looked like dragons, waves, and frozen lava.

The Atlas Rock campsite is not too expensive and you can sleep in the middle of the park, which is n enjoyable experience. All reservations must be done in advance on the Nevada State Parks official website.

Utah Hidden Spots Road Trip

Utah is one of the best states in the U.S. for a road trip. The landscapes feel almost unreal, with red rock deserts, deep canyons, and dramatic cliffs that change colours with the light.

Or from Salt Lake City and around mountains that reminded me of the Alps. I also went to Colorado on a previous USA road trip, and Utah has nothing to envy its right neighbour. Seriously. Utah amazed me. The picture of Karma and I on my homepage also has been taken on Antelope Island.

I found this island just by looking at the map and looking for some place on our way up that made sense. I thought, ”Oh, that looks interesting, let’s have a look.” I googled camping around and found Bridger Bay Campground. It was pretty cheap for this beyond’s dreamland expectations. I had never heard or read about this place, and somehow it was one of my highlights, if not my favourite.

Don’t they look just like the Beast in Beauty and the Beast?

Bryce Canyon National Park

Bryce Canyon was one of my favourite stops in Utah, and it is definitely worth visiting.

What makes it special is the landscape filled with thousands of rock spires called hoodoos. From the viewpoints above the canyon, it almost looks like a giant natural amphitheatre.

You can admire the park from the rim viewpoints, but you can also hike down inside the canyon, which is even more impressive. Walking between the hoodoos feels like exploring another planet.

If you travel with a dog, most national parks only allow them on paved trails. However, with a service dog vest, it is possible to access the hiking trails. That allowed us to explore more of the canyon.

The park offers many viewpoints, and, like the Grand Canyon, the scenery changes a lot depending on where you stand.

When we visited at the end of winter, most of the campgrounds inside the park were still closed. We ended up staying in a small town nearby where a few campgrounds were already open in March.

Zion National Park

Zion is another incredible park in Utah, but it is also one of the busiest.

The canyon walls are massive and the landscapes are spectacular, but because of the high number of visitors, the park uses a shuttle bus system for many of the main trails. You usually need to park your vehicle and take the bus to reach different hiking areas.

They usually limit dogs to the paved Pa’rus Trail, yet the scenery continues to be beautiful. Service dogs are welcomed in the shuttle bus and in other trails.

Camping inside Zion can be difficult. When we arrived in March, every campground was already full, and we couldn’t find a spot inside the park. Making reservations well in advance is definitely advisable for this place, even outside the peak summer season.

Wyoming and South Dakota: Badlands National Park and the American Plains

America became huge again. Infinite land in every direction. You literally see the horizon and think to yourself: ”where does it start? Where does it end?” ”Where is everyone?”

Another park I never really researched nor knew about and was really cool is The Badlands National Park. That’s also where I saw the prairie dogs for the first time. They are so cute!!! I enjoyed this park as well.

Thanks to our America the Beautiful Pass, we got this one included again.

Midwest Road Trip Back to Canada

The drive continued through:

• Minnesota
• Wisconsin
• Michigan
• Indiana

Quiet highways. Lakes. A stop in Chicago. Just love that town. Endless farmland.

Eventually…

Canada again!

It’s always a pleasure to be back. And let’s be honest again, the Canadian customs officers are way friendlier!

American Road Culture

We made friends on the road. But mostly in Mexico. In the US, people tend to be more individualistic. At least on the free parking places.

If you don’t start conversations, many people won’t approach you either.

It’s not unfriendly. Just respectful, I guess.

The lawyer billboards

They are everywhere. They are working. For sure!

The number of fast-food chains

Not just McDonald’s.

Also:

• Waffle House
• Cracker Barrel
• Jack in the Box
• Sonic
• Chick-fil-A
• Whataburger
• KFC (do you know we called this one PFK in Québec because of the French Law 1010. It means Poulet Frist Kentucky!)
• In-N-Out Burger
• Subway
• Burger King
• Wendy’s
• Dairy Queen
• Pizza Hut
• Dominoes
• Five Guys
• Little Ceasars
• And more!!

The list is long. Not very vegan or vegetarian friendly. Cracker Barrel actually became the only one I spent money on. For its vegetarian options, friendly service, free overnight parking, and…

And it feels like eating inside a movie set.

Books Written on This Journey

During this road trip I also wrote my first my novel: Le Buffet.

A half true event inspiried travel-thriller with a bit of a gore touch and dark side to it…

If you’re curious, I’m thinking of publishing it to a certain audience on this blog. Let me know in the comments if you’d like to receive a free chapter. I could start a mailing list just for this!

Places Still on My USA National Parks Bucket List

This country is enormous. I spent hours writing this post, choosing the pictures, remembering places… And it still feels that I barely scratched the surface.

Some national parks that came a lot in recommendations, but that were too out of the way or too cold for the time I was there:

• Yellowstone
• Grand Teton
• Redwood
• Oregon coast
• Northern California
• Moab
• Arches
• Big Bend

How Much Does a USA Road Trip Cost?

If you travel with your own van, your daily costs will be lower. If you rent a van or RV, your budget can increase significantly. Of course, owning a van also means you’ve already invested money in buying and/or building it.

For now, let’s focus on the daily costs on the road. At the end, we’ll also explore van rentals if you’re planning your trip that way.

️Camping

• State parks: $19–$40 per night
• Private campgrounds / RV resorts: $80–$130 per night
• Free options: Walmart parking lots, Cracker Barrel, street parking, and BLM land

Food

• Groceries for two people (Walmart average): about $100-150 per week
• Fast-food or casual restaurant for two with drinks: $40–$50

Gas

Gas prices vary widely depending on the state and your vehicle. For example, fuel is usually much cheaper in Texas than in California.

Your fuel budget will also depend heavily on what you drive. A Dodge Caravan and a large V8 van won’t consume the same amount of gasoline.

On average, many road trippers spend around $0.12–$0.20 per mile on fuel.

Internet on the Road

Reliable internet can make van life much easier.

Many travelers use:

• Starlink for remote areas (if you have the need and budget for it. Make sure you can supply it with power!)
• A travel eSIM for mobile data. Check out Roamless or Holafly. They have good deals.

National Parks Pass

If you plan to visit several national parks, the America the Beautiful Pass is a must.

• $80 per year for US residents (it used to be $80 for everyone last year!)
• $250 per year for non-US residents

It gives access to all U.S. national parks and federal recreation lands for one year. After visiting three or four parks, it usually pays for itself. As for the Grand Canyon, as of 2026, Grand Canyon National Park entrance fees are $35 per vehicle (valid for 7 days) + $100 per person surcharge applies to non-US.

So the pass makes more sense, and is usually for four adults and one vehicle.

Renting a Van for a USA Road Trip

If you don’t own a van, renting one is an easy way to experience van life without committing to buying and building your own setup.

Rental prices vary depending on the season, vehicle type, and location, but many camper vans cost roughly $80–$200 per day.

You can compare options here:

• Camperdays
• Indie Campers
• Cruise America

If you’re thinking of doing something similar, here are a few things that helped me.

I bought vans in Mexico and in Canada, but never in the United States. I know a lot Americans I met on the road and they all had their license plates registered in South Dakota. I think it’s cheaper and you do not really need an address to do so.

Best Time for a USA Road Trip

One of the beautiful things about a USA road trip is that there is always somewhere perfect to travel depending on the season. The country is so large that you can almost follow good weather all year long.

If I had to plan this same journey again, I would organize it slightly differently depending on the climate.

Spring is probably one of the best times to explore the American Southwest. Places like the Grand Canyon, Utah’s national parks, Nevada, or Arizona are much more comfortable in April and May, before the extreme summer heat arrives.

Summer is ideal for the northern regions. States like Oregon, northern California, Wyoming or Montana really shine between June and August. This is also the perfect time to visit places like Yellowstone or drive along the Oregon coast.

Personally, I would avoid southern deserts in the middle of summer. Areas like southern Texas, Arizona, or parts of California can become extremely hot, especially if you are travelling in a van. Sleeping inside a vehicle when it’s over 40°C outside quickly turns into a sauna experience.

Autumn is another fantastic season for road trips. Temperatures cool down again in the desert states, and many national parks become quieter after the summer crowds.

In the end, the best strategy for a long American road trip is simple: follow the seasons. Start in the south during winter, move north in summer, and chase comfortable temperatures across the continent. That is just a reality of Van Life!

Final Thoughts On This USA Road Trip

The United States is strange. Fascinating. Chaotic. Beautiful.

Sometimes uncomfortable. Like any large country, it has its share of social tensions, political divides and health issues, but there’s also normal people, beautiful landscapes and… a lot of space! They were a welcoming nation, at least to me, and I had a lot of pleasure in my neighbouring country. Thank you for that.

I had few weeks and few months at a time to explore, and it still feels like not enough. Yet, my sister came to visit from and to Las Vegas airport, and we made her see a lot in a week (Las Vegas itself, Grand Canyon, Antelope Canyon, Kanab, Zion National Park, and more!

So no matter really how long you’ve got, just adapt your speed or your wishlist and you’ll have a glorius trip either way!

If you’ve done a USA road trip, I’d love to hear your favourite stop. I’m always adding new places to my map.

Now, let’s hit the road, JACK!