My Colombian journey began on January 1, 2020, at the same time as my South American adventure. I had no idea how that year would turn out, just like the rest of the world, when I boarded a plane from Mexico (CDMX) to Colombia.
I was in my second year of backpacking, heading full force into my third. I had celebrated New Year’s Eve with friends, somehow managing to celebrate in two different countries on two different continents. It felt like the perfect way to start another year of travelling.
Colombia was next.
I spent the first part of my trip travelling with friends along the Caribbean coast, chasing turquoise water, jungle adventures, and desert sunsets. Later, we split up, and I continued inland through the mountains, coffee country, and some of Colombia’s bigger cities before eventually making my way towards Ecuador.
This wasn’t a trip where I ticked off every famous destination. I skipped Bogotá, missed some places I’d love to see, and ended up spending four unexpected days in Popayán. But that’s the beauty of backpacking: sometimes the best stories come from the places you never planned to visit.
If you’re planning a trip to Colombia, here’s the route I followed, the places I loved, and a few things I wish I’d known along the way.
Oh, and a classic of Writing Vagabond, a book recommendation dropped in a post for that journey : The Gringo Trail by Mark Mann. It really did fit that trip!
Itinerary
Cartagena: Starting in the Caribbean
We started our Colombian adventure in Cartagena, staying in Getsemaní, one of the coolest neighbourhoods for young travellers and backpackers.
With its lively streets, bars, restaurants, and nightlife, Getsemaní was a great base for exploring the city. There was always somewhere to grab a drink, find something to eat, or meet other travellers. The beaches were also accessible from the city, although we generally took taxis to get around. Since there were four of us travelling together, splitting the fare was often cheaper and easier than figuring out other transport options.
Cartagena was our introduction to Colombia, but we didn’t stay long before the temptation of the Caribbean islands pulled us away.
Isla Tintipán: Turquoise Water and Island Life
Our next stop was Isla Tintipán, a small island in the San Bernardo archipelago where we found a completely different pace of life.
The island had a laid-back, tropical holiday atmosphere, with crystal-clear blue water and a party hostel that served as a gathering point for travellers. Don’t expect a big selection of shops and restaurants, though. If you’re staying there, bring your own alcohol and some food if you don’t want to depend entirely on what’s available at the hostel.
One of my favourite things to do was rent a kayak and explore the surrounding islands. One island had a small local community, with concrete buildings and little convenience stores. Another felt like a different world altogether, with a golf course and expensive holiday properties.
You can explore quite a bit in a few hours, but pay attention to the distance and the time. We left rather late on our kayaking adventure, and getting back turned into a bit more of a workout than expected. Thankfully, I was travelling with someone I had recently met who knew what he was doing on the water. We made it back!
I’d absolutely recommend adding Tintipán to your Colombian itinerary if you’re looking for beautiful Caribbean water and a few days away from the mainland. Just remember that island logistics are part of the adventure.
Barranquilla: A Quick Stop on the Caribbean Coast
From the islands, we continued east along the northern coast, eventually hoping to reach the desert landscapes of La Guajira.
Our first stop was Barranquilla, best known internationally as the birthplace of Shakira and for its famous Carnival, one of Colombia’s major cultural celebrations. The city’s traditions are strongly connected to Caribbean rhythms, including cumbia and mapalé.
We stayed for only a day or two. Personally, it wasn’t the most visually appealing stop on our route, and we were more interested in finding our next adventure than spending much time in the city.
Still, every destination doesn’t have to become your favourite. Sometimes a place is simply a stop along the way.
Santa Marta: The Gateway to Jungle Adventures
Santa Marta wasn’t necessarily the prettiest city we visited either, but it was an excellent base for exploring the surrounding region.
From here, you can organise several of the area’s biggest adventures, from jungle treks to quieter mountain villages and coastal national parks.
I decided to sign up for the four-day trek to Ciudad Perdida, also known as the Lost City. My friends chose to head to Minca instead, looking for a more relaxed jungle experience.
Both options sounded great, and if you have enough time and money, I can see the appeal of doing both.
Hiking to Ciudad Perdida, the Lost City
The Lost City trek was one of the highlights of my Colombian adventure.
Over four days, we hiked through the jungle to reach an ancient archaeological site hidden in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountains. The journey was challenging, sweaty, and absolutely worth it.
Here’s the thing: I wasn’t particularly fit at the time, and I completed the trek wearing my Birkenstocks.
Would I recommend hiking shoes? Probably, depending on the conditions and what you’re comfortable wearing. But my experience taught me that you don’t necessarily have to be an experienced hiker or an athlete to take on an adventure like this. Choose footwear that gives you adequate grip and support, and listen to your guide.
You also don’t need to carry every piece of camping equipment yourself. Accommodation and sleeping arrangements are organised along the route, so check what’s included in your chosen tour before packing.
The trek wasn’t cheap by backpacker standards, but I would still recommend it. The jungle, the physical challenge, the people you meet along the way, and finally reaching the Lost City made it a memorable experience.
Minca: A Slower Jungle Alternative
While I was hiking towards Ciudad Perdida, my friends headed to Minca.
Minca offers another way to experience the mountains and jungle near Santa Marta, with opportunities to slow down, enjoy nature, and escape the Caribbean heat. It’s a good alternative if you’re looking for something more relaxed or want to spend less than you would on the Lost City trek.
My friends really enjoyed it, and I can understand why. If your itinerary allows for both, you could easily combine the two rather than choosing one over the other.
Palomino: Tubing and Beach Days
After our separate adventures, we continued east to Palomino, a laid-back beach destination where the main activity we tried was tubing down the river.
We rented tubes, floated along the water, and enjoyed a relaxed afternoon with friends. The current wasn’t particularly strong when we went, so it was more about enjoying the surroundings than chasing an adrenaline rush.
Palomino is a nice place to slow down after more demanding adventures. For me, a couple of days felt about right, especially with so many other places to discover along the coast.
Between Santa Marta and Palomino, you’ll also find Tayrona National Natural Park. I skipped it during my trip, although I’d heard plenty of good things about it. If hiking through coastal forest, beaches, and nature is your thing, it’s worth looking into when planning your route.
La Guajira: Three Days in Colombia’s Desert
From Palomino, we continued towards Riohacha, the starting point for our trip into La Guajira.
This was one of the experiences I was most excited about. We booked a three-day jeep tour together, and it ended up being one of my favourite parts of the country.
La Guajira felt worlds away from the Caribbean beaches we’d visited earlier. We travelled through desert landscapes, took short hikes, spent time on remote beaches, and watched the stars come out over the dunes.
It was a mixture of adventure and slowing down, with long stretches of road, simple accommodation, and plenty of time to appreciate how different this region was from the rest of our route.
What to Expect on a La Guajira Jeep Tour
We spent our nights sleeping in hammocks alongside other groups of travellers, sharing meals at large communal tables. Don’t expect luxury accommodation. The appeal is the remoteness, the landscapes, and the experience of travelling through a region that feels far removed from the usual backpacker circuit.
One thing that stayed with me was seeing how difficult access to basic resources can be in remote communities. Water scarcity is a serious challenge in parts of La Guajira, particularly for Wayuu communities, who have deep cultural roots in the region.
Our guide sometimes asked us to buy water to distribute to children we encountered along the way. It was a small gesture on our part, but one that made the realities of life in this region more tangible.
La Guajira was beautiful, but it also reminded me that travelling through a place is different from understanding the challenges faced by the people who call it home.
If you’re visiting, book with a responsible local operator, respect the communities you meet, and follow your guide’s advice. Conditions can be demanding, and the distances involved make local knowledge particularly valuable.
I loved this trip. The combination of jeep adventures, desert landscapes, beaches, star-filled skies, and shared meals made it a memorable part of my Colombian journey.
Medellín: Nightlife, Neighbourhoods and Mountain Views
After returning to Santa Marta, it was time to head inland to Medellín.
The city is often associated with Pablo Escobar and Colombia’s violent past, but that history is only one part of a much larger story. It remains a sensitive subject, and I found it important to remember that the people who live here are not defined by the country’s history of drug trafficking.
We spent most of our time going out, enjoying the nightlife, and exploring the city with friends.
Where to Stay in Medellín
We based ourselves in El Poblado, a popular area with plenty of hostels, restaurants, bars, and nightclubs. It was convenient for backpackers who wanted to meet people and enjoy the city’s nightlife.
If I were planning the trip again, I’d also look into Laureles. It’s another well-known neighbourhood with cafés, restaurants, bars, and a different atmosphere from the busier tourist areas.
Comuna 13: Street Art and Breakdancing
One place worth adding to your itinerary is Comuna 13, known for its street art, outdoor escalators, and cultural transformation.
You can explore its colourful streets, watch local performers, and learn more about the neighbourhood’s history. If possible, go with a knowledgeable local guide who can explain the context behind the murals and the changes the community has experienced.
It’s a different side of Medellín from the nightlife scene, and a reminder that the city has plenty to offer beyond its reputation.
Medellín, the City of Eternal Spring
Medellín is often called the City of Eternal Spring, thanks to its mild climate throughout the year.
Its location in the Aburrá Valley, surrounded by mountains, gives the city a distinctive landscape. Temperatures are generally comfortable compared with many other Colombian destinations, although the weather can still vary.
Between the nightlife, neighbourhoods, museums, street art, and mountain views, there is plenty to fill several days here.
Guatapé: Colourful Streets and a Giant Rock
One of the most popular day trips from Medellín is Guatapé, and it’s easy to see why.
This colourful little town is known for its decorated façades and bright streets. Nearby, the enormous rock known as El Peñol or Piedra del Peñol rises above the surrounding landscape, offering spectacular views from the top.
The surrounding lake system was created through the construction of a hydroelectric dam, transforming the landscape into the network of waterways and islands visitors see today.
You can climb the rock, wander through the town, and enjoy the views over the water. It’s a great contrast to the big city and a relatively straightforward addition to a Medellín itinerary.
We eventually went our separate ways here. My friends continued on their own route, while I carried on exploring Colombia solo.
Valle de Cocora: Hiking Among Giant Wax Palms
Next on my route was the Cocora Valley, one of Colombia’s most distinctive landscapes.
The valley is famous for its towering wax palms, Colombia’s national tree, which rise dramatically above the green hills.
It’s a wonderful place to go hiking, enjoy the mountain scenery, and experience a different side of the country after travelling through the Caribbean coast and the desert.
If you’re building a Colombia itinerary, I would absolutely consider adding this region to the route. The landscapes are so different from the beaches, jungles, and cities that it’s worth making time for the detour.
Cali: Salsa, Music and City Life
From the mountains, I continued to Cali, a city famous for salsa dancing.
I wanted to experience the local music and nightlife, and Cali was a natural stop for that part of my Colombian adventure. Salsa is deeply connected to the city’s identity, and there are opportunities to listen to music, take lessons, and head out dancing.
I wasn’t exactly a natural on the dance floor, so I also looked for other things to do while I was there.
That led me to visit the zoo. I’m not particularly proud of that choice, but it was one of the activities I ended up doing at the time.
Looking back, I’d probably focus more on the city’s music and cultural scene if I returned. Even if you’re not a great dancer, Cali is a place where you can enjoy the atmosphere and appreciate just how important salsa is to local life.
Popayán: Four Unexpected Days Before Ecuador
My last stop before heading towards Ecuador was supposed to be a straightforward part of my journey south. Instead, I ended up spending four unexpected days in Popayán.
At the time, security tensions involving armed groups disrupted transport along the Pan-American Highway, making it difficult to continue towards the border. So there I was, stuck in a beautiful white colonial city with no choice but to slow down and wait.
I spent my days watching the sunset from the popular viewpoint overlooking the city, drinking beers, and figuring out when I could finally continue my journey.
It wasn’t exactly what I’d planned, but that’s backpacking for you. Sometimes the road decides when you’re allowed to move on.
Eventually, I managed to organise my transport south to Pasto, where my Colombian adventure was about to reach its final stop.
Pasto: A Quick Stop on the Way to Ecuador
Pasto wasn’t the prettiest city I visited in Colombia, but I wasn’t there to explore. I chose this route through the Andes to cross into Ecuador by land, and Pasto was simply a stop between buses. I booked a night in a hostel, bought some food for the evening, and got ready for the next leg of the journey.
Sometimes, a city is just a place to sleep before the road calls again.
Las Lajas Sanctuary: A Church Built Into a Canyon
Before crossing into Ecuador, I visited one of the most spectacular churches I’ve ever seen: the Sanctuary of Las Lajas, near Ipiales in southern Colombia.
Built into a steep canyon above the Guáitara River, the neo-Gothic church looks almost unreal, with a tall stone bridge connecting the two sides of the gorge. It’s the kind of place that makes you stop and wonder how anyone came up with the idea of building something like this there.
The setting is just as impressive as the architecture. The church rises dramatically from the canyon walls, surrounded by green cliffs, with the river far below. Even if you’re not particularly interested in religious sites, it’s worth a visit for the landscape alone.
Las Lajas was the perfect final stop before leaving Colombia. After weeks of Caribbean beaches, desert landscapes, jungle treks, colourful villages, and mountain roads, I was ending my journey somewhere completely different.
Crossing the Border into Ecuador on Foot
From Ipiales, I crossed the Colombia-Ecuador border on foot.
After travelling through Colombia since January 1, 2020, it felt like the natural end of one adventure and the beginning of another. I had travelled from the Caribbean coast through the mountains and cities, experienced unexpected delays, and eventually made my way all the way down to the southern border.
Crossing into Ecuador on foot was another reminder of what I love about backpacking: you don’t need to have everything planned months in advance. Sometimes you just keep moving, adapt when things don’t go as expected, and see where the road takes you.
Colombia was the beginning of my South American journey, and I left knowing there was still so much more to discover.
I never made it to Bogotá, and I still dream of exploring the Colombian Amazon from Leticia one day. Maybe I’ll return with Karma, too, and see a completely different side of the country.
For now, it was time to cross into Ecuador and continue south.
Places I Didn’t Visit in Colombia (But Still Want to See)
Even after travelling across a good part of the country, there were places I left unexplored.
Bogotá
I never made it to Bogotá. I’m not particularly drawn to big cities, and I was more interested in Colombia’s mountains, beaches, and smaller destinations during this trip.
Who knows? Maybe I’ll visit one day. I’m not ruling it out, but it wasn’t a priority for me at the time.
Leticia and the Colombian Amazon
The place I’d really love to explore is Leticia, in Colombia’s Amazon region.
Located in the far south of the country near the borders with Peru and Brazil, Leticia is a gateway to Amazon rainforest experiences and river journeys. I’d love to spend more time exploring this part of South America, potentially travelling along the Amazon and its tributaries through several countries.
It’s one of those adventures I know I’ll have to save for another trip.
Colombia is a huge and diverse country, and there’s no way to see everything in one visit. That’s part of what makes it worth returning to.
Practical Tips for Backpacking Colombia
A few things I learned along the way:
- Stay flexible. Distances can be long, transport plans can change, and sometimes you’ll need to spend an extra day somewhere.
- Choose your neighbourhood carefully. In cities like Cartagena and Medellín, where you stay can make a big difference to your experience.
- Travel with cash. Small shops, local transport, and remote destinations may not always accept cards.
- Ask about meals and water. In remote places such as La Guajira, supplies can be limited, so plan ahead and follow local advice.
- Try the local food. Arepas are a Colombian staple, with many regional variations. A menú del día, or daily set lunch, can also be an affordable way to eat out.
- Respect local communities. Especially in remote Indigenous territories, learn about local customs and choose responsible guides and operators.
- Be aware of your surroundings. Use reputable transport, keep an eye on your belongings, and ask locals or your accommodation about current safety conditions.
- Don’t plan every day. Some of my most memorable experiences came from unexpected detours and unplanned stops.
Travelling Colombia with a Dog
Karma wasn’t part of this Colombian adventure just yet! She came into my life later that year, in Bolivia, so I explored Colombia without her. Still, I’ve seen other travellers exploring the country with their four-legged companions, and Colombia is definitely worth considering if you’re planning a longer trip through South America with a dog.
From beach destinations along the Caribbean coast to mountain towns and countryside escapes, there are plenty of places to explore. Of course, travelling with a dog requires a little more planning, especially when it comes to transport, accommodation, tropical heat, and remote destinations.
Requirements for Travelling to Colombia with a Dog
If you’re planning to enter Colombia with your dog, check the official requirements well before your departure. The Colombian Agricultural Institute, known as the ICA (Instituto Colombiano Agropecuario), is the authority responsible for the country’s animal-health entry procedures.
For dogs arriving from abroad, the current requirements generally include:
- An official health certificate: It must be issued or endorsed by the competent official animal-health authority in your country of origin and dated no more than 10 calendar days before arrival.
- Up-to-date vaccinations: Colombia requires valid vaccination records for rabies, distemper, canine hepatitis, leptospirosis, parvovirus, coronavirus, and parainfluenza.
- Internal and external parasite treatment: Treatment must have been administered within 60 days before travel, with the product name, active ingredient, and date recorded.
- The sanitary inspection process: Register with the ICA’s SISPAP system and apply for the required Certificado de Inspección Sanitaria (CIS), including payment where applicable. When you arrive, take your dog and original documents to the ICA office at your designated airport, port, or authorised border crossing for document checks and a physical inspection.
- Rabies vaccination timing: If your dog is receiving its first rabies vaccination, it must generally have been administered at least 21 days before travel.
Requirements can depend on the country you’re departing from and your travel arrangements, so confirm the exact documentation and procedure before booking. Airlines may also have their own rules for transporting animals.
One last thing: entering Colombia with your dog is only one part of the planning. If you’re continuing through other South American countries, check each country’s entry and exit requirements separately. Keeping vaccination records and health documents organised will make border crossings much easier.
I didn’t travel through Colombia with Karma, so these are practical planning notes rather than a first-hand account of travelling the country with a dog. I’d always confirm the latest rules with the relevant authorities before setting off.
Karma was here: Not yet! Karma came into my life a few countries and a few months later.
Dog-friendly? Hard to say from experience, since I wasn’t travelling with my own dog yet. But I bonded with plenty of friendly dogs along the way!
Van Life in Colombia
Van life wasn’t part of my lifestyle yet when I visited Colombia in 2020. Back then, I was travelling with a backpack, staying in hostels, and figuring out where to go next as I went along.
But if you’re dreaming of exploring Colombia on four wheels, the country is absolutely a destination you can consider for a campervan or overland adventure. You can travel between Caribbean beaches, mountain regions, colourful villages, coffee-growing areas, and remote countryside, although road conditions, driving times, and security situations vary considerably by region.
Colombia also makes an interesting starting point for exploring South America by road. There’s just one major obstacle if you’re arriving from Central America: the Darién Gap.
The Darién Gap: Why You Can’t Drive from Panama to Colombia
The Darién Gap is a stretch of roadless rainforest, swamps, and mountainous terrain between Panama and Colombia. It interrupts the Pan-American Highway, meaning there is no continuous road connecting North America and South America through this section.
It’s not a matter of finding a rough track or bringing a more capable 4×4. There simply isn’t a road you can drive through, and attempting to cross the region overland is dangerous.
So, what happens if you’re travelling through the Americas in a van or camper?
How to Get Your Van from Panama to Colombia
Overlanders generally arrange to ship their vehicle by sea between Panama and Colombia, commonly between the port of Colón and Cartagena. Meanwhile, they make their own way across the gap.
There are a few options:
- Shared shipping container: Your van is loaded into a container, often shared with another vehicle if space and dimensions allow. Sharing can help reduce the cost.
- Roll-on/roll-off shipping (RoRo): The vehicle is driven onto a ship designed to carry vehicles. Availability, costs, and restrictions depend on the carrier and vehicle.
- Other freight arrangements: Oversized vehicles may require specialised shipping solutions, such as a flat rack.
Your van and you don’t necessarily travel together. Many overlanders fly from Panama to Colombia while their vehicle travels by ship. Others arrange a sailing trip through the San Blas Islands before continuing to Cartagena, combining the journey with a few days on the water.
How Much Does It Cost to Ship a Van Across the Darién Gap?
Unfortunately, shipping a campervan around the Darién Gap can be expensive. The final cost depends on the size of your vehicle, the shipping method, port charges, documentation, customs procedures, and whether you use an agent.
Budget for more than just the advertised freight rate. Port fees and administrative costs on both sides can add up, and you’ll need to organise your own transport and accommodation while your vehicle is being shipped.
Prices and procedures change, so request a current, itemised quote before making plans. Also check vehicle dimensions and any restrictions on fuel, gas systems, and batteries before booking.
For anyone planning the ultimate road trip from Canada or the United States all the way through South America, this is an important logistical and financial hurdle to factor into the budget.
I haven’t crossed the Darién Gap with a van myself, but it’s something worth researching carefully if you dream of taking your own home on wheels through the Americas.
Is Colombia Worth Visiting?
Absolutely. My time in Colombia took me from turquoise Caribbean water to remote desert landscapes, humid jungle trails, mountain valleys, colourful villages, and lively cities.
It wasn’t a perfect trip, and I didn’t visit every destination on my list. But I experienced so many different sides of the country that it left me wanting to come back.
I’d return for the Colombian Amazon, explore the places I missed, and spend more time in the regions that made me want to stay longer.
Colombia was the beginning of my South American journey in January 2020, and it remains one of those countries that reminds me why I chose this way of life in the first place: there’s always another road to follow, another landscape to discover, and another story waiting somewhere along the way.
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