Writing Vagabond

After months of travelling through the Schengen Zone, I eventually reached a point many long-term travellers know well: I needed a reset. And especially daily hot showers!

The freedom of van life is incredible, but after weeks on the road, sometimes you crave an actual bed, a private space, a proper toilet, and a place where you can simply slow down.

During my Schengen visa escape, I decided to continue my journey through Eastern Europe and discovered one of my favourite countries in the Balkans: Montenegro.

Small in size but massive in landscapes, Montenegro surprised me with dramatic mountains, turquoise bays, medieval towns, affordable living, and some of the easiest van life I experienced in Europe.

I ended up spending a full month in the small village of Risan, right beside the famous Bay of Kotor, and it quickly felt like home.

My Favourite Budget Travel Trick: Finding Cheap Long-Term Stays

One of my favourite travel tricks when I need a break from van life or hostels is simple:

Check Airbnb.

Choose flexible dates.

Search for stays of 30 days or longer.

Many travellers overlook monthly discounts, especially in smaller towns that are not the most famous tourist destinations. Sometimes you can find incredible deals in places you would have never considered visiting.

That is exactly how I found Risan.

For only €150 for an entire month, I had:

• A private room
• My own bathroom
• A private balcony
• A shared kitchen
• Parking
• A beautiful garden and terrace

The view from my balcony overlooked the mountains surrounding the Bay of Kotor, and I could walk to everything I needed.

There was a small supermarket nearby, local cafés, restaurants, and the peaceful village of Risan just below.

After months of constantly moving, it was exactly what I needed. And it is pet-friendly!

Here’s the said place if you’re curious!

Risan: The Perfect Alternative to Staying in Kotor

While most travellers choose to stay directly in Kotor, I personally loved staying in Risan.

Located on the Bay of Kotor, only a short drive from the famous old town, Risan offers something that many popular destinations slowly lose: peace.

You still get the incredible scenery of the bay without the same crowds, prices, and busy streets.

From Risan, I could easily explore:

• Kotor Old Town
• Perast
• Herceg Novi
• The surrounding mountains and coastline

If you visit this part of the country, do not skip this area.

The Bay of Kotor was one of the highlights of my entire Balkan journey.

Exploring Kotor: Medieval Streets and Mountain Views

No Montenegro road trip would be complete without visiting Kotor.

Surrounded by dramatic limestone mountains, Kotor looks almost unreal, like someone placed a medieval European town between the mountains and the sea.

Walking through the Old Town feels like travelling back in time, with:

• Stone streets
• Historic churches
• Small cafés
• Restaurants
• Local shops
• Endless ice cream options (an essential travel requirement)

The biggest highlight, however, is climbing to the Fortress of St. John.

The hike follows ancient stone steps above the city and rewards you with one of the most spectacular views of the Bay of Kotor.

The climb includes around 1,350 steps and takes approximately one hour, depending on your pace, but the view from the top is absolutely worth the effort.

For van travellers, Kotor is also surprisingly accessible. There are parking options around the city, although arriving early during the summer season is highly recommended.

Affordable Healthcare in Montenegro: Dentist and Veterinarian Visits

One unexpected advantage of spending more time in Montenegro was discovering how affordable healthcare services were compared to Western Europe.

During my stay, I needed both dental and veterinary appointments, and I was able to get everything done for a fraction of the price I would have paid elsewhere.

For long-term travellers, this is something worth considering.

Montenegro is not only beautiful, it is also practical.

If you need recommendations for a good dentist or veterinarian around Kotor, leave a comment and I can share the addresses I used.

Durmitor National Park: Montenegro’s Wild Mountain Side

After enjoying the coastline, it was time to discover another side of Montenegro: the mountains.

Durmitor National Park feels like entering a completely different country.

The landscape changes dramatically from Mediterranean beaches and turquoise water to rugged alpine peaks, deep valleys, glacial lakes, and some of the most spectacular canyons in Europe.

The park is famous for:

• The Tara Canyon, the deepest canyon in Europe
• Black Lake (Crno Jezero)
• Mountain hiking trails
• Traditional villages
• Dramatic limestone peaks

Tara Canyon: One of Europe’s Most Impressive Canyons

One of the biggest surprises in northern Montenegro is the Tara Canyon, carved by the Tara River through the limestone mountains of Durmitor.

At its deepest point, the canyon reaches around 1,333 metres, making it the deepest canyon in Europe and one of the deepest river canyons in the world. It stretches for roughly 80 kilometres through the mountains, with some sections forming part of the border between Montenegro and Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Standing above it gives you a completely different perspective on just how mountainous Montenegro is. The Tara River looks tiny from the canyon rim, winding through enormous limestone walls far below.

The river itself is famous for its exceptionally clear, cold water and is known as the “Tear of Europe.” The canyon is also one of Montenegro’s best destinations for adventure activities, particularly white-water rafting, kayaking, hiking, and ziplining near the famous Đurđevića Tara Bridge.

If you’re travelling through Montenegro by van, the Tara Canyon is one of those places where the drive itself becomes part of the experience. Mountain roads, enormous cliffs, forests, and viewpoints appear one after another as you make your way through northern Montenegro.

And Tara isn’t the only spectacular canyon in this part of the country. The Piva Canyon, also in northern Montenegro, is another enormous gorge known for its dramatic cliffs and emerald-coloured waters. Together, the Tara and Piva landscapes make this region one of the most impressive parts of Montenegro for road trips and outdoor adventures.

Durmitor’s Mountains and Hiking

The highest summit, Bobotov Kuk, reaches 2,523 metres and is one of the most impressive hikes in the country.

For adventure lovers, Durmitor also offers climbing routes and via ferrata experiences. If you already have your own equipment, you can enjoy incredible mountain adventures without expensive guided tours.

This was one of my favourite places.

Standing surrounded by enormous mountains, fresh air, deep canyons, and endless landscapes reminded me why I chose this lifestyle in the first place.

Montenegro Van Life: One of the Easiest Countries in Europe

After travelling through many countries with my van, Montenegro quickly became one of my favourite van life destinations in Europe.

Finding places to sleep was easy.

Using apps like Park4Night, I discovered incredible overnight spots surrounded by mountains, beaches, and nature. I often stayed several nights in beautiful locations without any issues.

Compared to many Western European countries, van life in Montenegro still feels free and uncomplicated.

The country offers:

• Beautiful wild camping spots
• Short driving distances
• Affordable food and accommodation
• Incredible landscapes
• Friendly locals

The people of Montenegro can sometimes appear reserved at first, but once you start a conversation, you quickly discover how welcoming and kind they are.

During my travels, I never felt unwelcome.

Montenegro has that rare feeling where you can wake up with a mountain view, swim in the sea in the afternoon, and drive somewhere completely different before sunset.

Petrovac and Bar: Montenegro’s Coastal Towns

While Kotor Bay was my favourite coastal area, Montenegro’s southern coastline offers a completely different atmosphere.

Petrovac is a popular seaside town known for its beaches, waterfront promenade, and relaxed holiday atmosphere. During the summer months, it becomes much busier and more expensive due to its popularity with tourists.

Further south, Bar is a larger coastal city with an important port, beaches, and access to some of Montenegro’s historical sites.

The old town of Stari Bar, located inland from the modern city, is especially worth visiting. This ancient settlement surrounded by mountains offers a fascinating mix of history, ruins, and traditional architecture.

For travellers looking for a more local experience, this area can be a great stop while exploring the coast.

Montenegro for Digital Nomads: Affordable European Living

Montenegro is also an excellent destination for digital nomads looking for an affordable European base.

During my visit in 2022, I bought a local SIM card for around €10 with hundreds of gigabytes of data, making working online easy and affordable.

With beautiful landscapes, seaside cafés, low living costs, and a slower pace of life, Montenegro has many things remote workers look for.

You can spend your morning answering emails with a view of the mountains, explore a medieval town in the afternoon, and watch the sunset over the Adriatic Sea in the evening.

For long-term travellers who want to slow down without spending a fortune, Montenegro is an underrated destination in Europe.

Is Montenegro Part of the European Union or Schengen?

One interesting fact about Montenegro is that although the country uses the euro (€), it is not part of the European Union and it is not part of the Schengen Zone.

For long-term travellers in Europe, this makes Montenegro a popular destination to spend time outside the Schengen area while continuing to explore the continent.

For me, Montenegro became the perfect next chapter after my Schengen visa escape, allowing me to slow down, explore a new country, and continue my journey through Eastern Europe.

How to Stay in Europe Longer Than 90 Days: A Long-Term Traveller’s Guide

Travelling With a Dog in Montenegro

Karma could join me on walks, outdoor cafés, and adventures through nature.

The country is especially enjoyable when travelling with a dog because so much of the experience happens outdoors:

• Hiking through mountains
• Exploring quiet villages
• Walking along the coast
• Relaxing in peaceful natural areas

The van also made everything easier. Karma always had her familiar space, and we could explore at our own rhythm.

If you are considering travelling Montenegro with your dog, I would absolutely recommend it. With a little preparation for border requirements, food, and veterinary information, it is a very dog-friendly destination. You can check out the pet import requirements on the official website here.

Karma was here: YES!

Dog-friendly? Compared to some countries where travelling with a dog can involve complicated restrictions, Montenegro felt simple and welcoming.

Final Thoughts: Why Montenegro Should Be on Your Bucket List

Montenegro completely surprised me.

I arrived looking for a place to slow down after months of travelling, and I left with memories of mountain roads, peaceful villages, incredible views, and some of the best van life experiences I had in Europe.

Whether you are travelling by van, backpacking, working remotely, or simply searching for an affordable European adventure, Montenegro deserves a place on your itinerary.

It has everything many travellers dream about:

Mountains.

The sea.

History.

Adventure.

Freedom.

A small country with enormous landscapes and endless possibilities.

Montenegro became one of those places I did not expect to love so much, but that stayed with me long after I left.

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